sea lion – Spans, a new life

Down to the Deep South, Last of The Falklands and on to Chile

Clearing formalities at around 09.00 it was time to leave the big smoke and sail for pastures new. From Stanley the plan was to head South down the Eastern side of East Falkland visiting locations on the main island along Bleaker Island and Sea Lion Island. Thereafter, Punta Arenas Chile.

Plans don’t always go to plan. The first scheduled stop was to be Bertha’s Beach but, due to the high seas running, it was deemed not to be feasible to land on the beach so, plan B. Bertha’s Beach is effectively an isthmus of low lying dunes with the beach on the open ocean side and a sheltered harbour behind. Unfortunately the harbour is a Royal Navy base and special permission is required to land there, this was duly sought. Eventually we were given permission to anchor in the relatively sheltered entrance to the harbour and then use our Zodiacs to land on the sheltered back side of the Isthmus, a trip of 30 to 40 minutes each way. As it was already late afternoon it was decided to have an early dinner onboard then go ashore for the evening.

It was actually quite a treat to be onshore on another of the beautiful beaches for sunset. The lighting conditions were wonderful and there were a lot of natural sculptures in the san formed by wind and waves. Very few penguins but some small waders feeding on the edge of the surf, quite a refreshing change from the normal penguin and albatross fests.

More works of art from the supreme master

Heading back to the Zodiacs after a great evening

After re-joining the ship we relocated to a new more secure anchorage where we rode out the night before moving on to Bleaker Island, a low lying island that still supports the owners through farming activities supplemented by the tourist dollar. Another straight forward landing onto a sandy beach where we were met by the owners who gave the guides advice on where best to walk. Doing a loop through an area of Tussock we passed Rockhopper and Rock Cormorant colonies on some low cliffs and then on to a large King Cormorant colony on the gentler slopes.

Penguin egg for dinner – why the Rockhoppers aren’t keen on Skuas

Rock Cormorants and Sheathbill in pleasing geometry

Well I got a picture, don’t think he did

Sheathbills (a scavenger) flying towards King Cormorant colony

After anchoring off Bleaker next morning saw us heading out for Bulls Point on the main East Island. From the beach where we landed a circular walk took in a further beach where Sea Lions were to be seen then on up to the top of some shallow cliffs giving access to Rockhopper and Rock Cormorant colonies. When walking up to the cliff we were hit by a short sharp rainstorm with attendant rainbow and good lighting across the cliffs in its aftermath.

Ashy Headed Goose, hadn’t seen these before

Moulting Sea Lions. These are youngsters undergoing their first moult at around one year

As today was 5th December in the Dutch tradition Christmas gifts are given. To mark this occasion we were to have a Pink Elephant event in the evening. Over the previous couple of weeks we had all been labouring away to produce an anonymous gifts, these gifts were duly wrapped and placed in a sack. Names were drawn and the ‘lucky’ person got to select a gift and open it in front of all. However, when your name was drawn you did not have to take a gift but could elect to steal one that had already been revealed. Any one gift could only be stolen twice so the second thief became the permanent owner. The person who’s gift had been stolen then had the option of selecting a further gift or stealing another but they couldn’t steal back the one that they had just lost. This led to a very entertaining evening and there were some well crafted imaginative gifts to be had.

The plan from here had been to sail to Sea Lion Island which was to be our last port of call in The Falkland Islands. Unfortunately this plan was scuppered by two vagrancies of the weather, firstly it was considered that the sea state was probably to wild to make the landing but, more importantly, if we were to stay around the Falklands for the additional day required for this visit we would be arriving at the entrance to the Straights of Magellan when gale force winds were being forecast, not a good prospect. Accordingly next morning (6th Dec) we would set sail for Chile with the aim of being at a safe anchorage before the storm struck.

For the next 3 days, due to the fact that we were heading more or less directly into the prevailing wind, we were motor sailing with just jib and stay sails set to help stabilise the vessel. The conditions on this leg were predominately rough with snow and rain squalls blowing through and big seas running with us shipping a considerable number of waves leading to several very damp watches. On the 9th we arrived into the Straights early in the morning and proceeded into the passage in fine weather but with increasing stronger winds. Arriving at the anchorage where we were to pick up the pilot the next day we duly dropped both anchors in an attempt to hold position. This ‘sheltered anchorage’ turned out to be anything but sheltered with us taking the full force of the wind and waves resulting in the anchors dragging and having to run the engines a full ahead to hold station and prevent further dragging of the anchors. Fortunately, during the next day the winds moderated and we were able to take the pilot required for straights on board at about 16.00 when we then sailed for Punta Arenas under motor. With the wind and currents now actually with us we ran through the night making up to 12Kn and arrived at the Punta Arenas anchorage at 03.30 0n the 11th where we would remain until we went alongside next morning, effectively the end of the trip. To celebrate or arrival we had a BBQ on deck in the evening with all Permeant and Voyage Crew in attendance.

Thursday 12th saw us move into the town jetty where we cleared Chilean formalities and could then go ashore before coming back on board for our last night on The Europa.

Oil rigs at the entrance to Straights of Magellan

Still carrying a bit of sail into the straights

Giant Petrels had been with us throughout

Paul & Jordi remove the last of the canvas for the last time

Paulina enjoys a last sunset from the anchorage

Rubens (Crew) securing things up on the bowsprit

A man of trade joining as at the Punta Arenas anchorage

So the last of the first episode of my Southern journeys but there will be one more blog on The Bark Europa where I’ll try to sum up my thoughts and feelings about the experience.

Down to the Deep South, Stanley

1 Dec to 3 Dec. Having cleared formalities one of the first priorities for many of us was to get ashore and get online so we could catch up with loved ones back home. Having purchased my internet pass card I found a reasonably comfortable corner in a café above the supermarket where I could tarry over a coffee and indulge in a long chat with Mary-Jo, was good to catch up after 15 days of radio silence.

After completing the social niceties I moved on to the small Falkland Islands museum, which, despite only being small was very informative about the history of the islands from their original discovery by Europeans in the 16th century, colonisation in the 18th century, along with attendant sovereignty disputes, through the strategic importance they held in the late 19th and early 20th centuries up to the current day. There was also a fairly small section on the Falklands war of 1982. The main ‘display’ in this section was a video using archive photographs and films from period but voiced over by islanders who had been children at the time. This film was quite poignant and moving. I understand that there are future plans to move the museum to a much larger site on the outskirts of the town where there will be the space for more comprehensive coverage of the 1982 crisis. This is a bit of a shame as it will probably loose the intimacy of the current facility.

The museum also had sections on the Falklands contribution to the allied cause during WWI &WWII which is an aspect of their history that I was hitherto ignorant of.

Please don’t fire we need that ship. Barrels from guns on HMS Lancaster

Memorial to the Battle of the Falkland Islands 1914

Part of the detail on the WWI memorial. The line-up of dreadnaughts seems a bit opposed to the message below!

Both of the above monuments may be found on the coast road where it runs out to the North of the town. The below memorial, which is the general war memorial is found adjacent to the town cemetery which is also on the coast road but to the South side of town. Behind this cemetery is a memorial wood planted to commemorate those (British and commonwealth subjects) who lost their lives in or in the aftermath of the Falklands War. The memorial contains a tree dedicated to each of the fallen and is a place suited for quietly reflecting on the futility of it all.

As it was soon after Armistice Day there were a series of pebbles painted by local school children running up the steps to the memorial and around its base.

One of the better know features of Stanley if the Whale Bone Arch which is adjacent to the Cathedral (Victorian). This is apparently constructed from the lower jaw bones of Blue Whales but looks rather plasticky. Those who had been here before said it used to be natural but have now been refurbished to their detriment. I was lucky enough to be passing as a rain storm blew through allowing me to catch this framed rainbow.

Even in Stanley itself there is wildlife that has little or no fear of man which is of course one of the aspects that draws so many nature lovers to the location. Below are a small sample.

The end of the small floating pontoon on which we landed from the Zodiacs had been commandeered by Sea Lions

The Falklands Steamer Duck is a flightless duck endemic to the islands.

Another point of interest in Stanley was the Falkland Islands Distillers at Philomel Distillery right on the water front behind tourist information. A gin distillery set up in Mach 2019 by Richard McKee a British expat who had previously been a hobby gin distiller when working as a fisheries protection officer in South Georgia. The main product, Darwin’s Botanicals Gin’ is a corn spirit double distilled with locally foraged botanicals. Unfortunately when I visited there was no Darwin’s available due to a breakdown in the supply chain for the raw corn spirit which is bought in from the UK. However, all was not lost, Richard had diversified and using a locally sourced (Montevideo) cane spirit he has started producing a second gin, again featuring local botanicals, called Dog-Watch and in line with the nautical themed name this gin carries a picture of a sailing ship on the label which is no other than our Europa. I think he did a roaring trade with us as many wanted the bottle with its label as a souvenir. Just meant the hardship of having to consume the gin. Whilst on the subject of alcohol I also note that there is a small brewery in Stanley, Falkland Beerworks, who make some very passable ales.

During the later part of the 29th century and the early years of the 20th Stanley became a place of refuge for old ladies of the sea who, having battled the cape and Drakes Passage, had either been beaten back or had come through but seriously wounded and managed to limp to into Stanley where they were to suffer the further ignominy of being written off as not worthy of repair. Many of these vessels and their cargos were purchased by local businesses and ended up their lives as storage hulks, one of the most famous of which was Brunel’s who arrived her in 1884 and sank in 1937. After languishing underwater for 33 years she was raised, patched-up and towed home to the Bristol dry dock where she had built and where, after major restoration works she now sits as a major tourist attraction. Few of the wrecks have survived till today but one, the Lady Elizabeth, often features in images of Stanley.

Lady Elizabeth still hard aground where she ended up after breaking her moorings in 1936. In Stanley she had served as a coal hulk after being condemned as unseaworthy in 1913 having sustained heavy storm damage when trying to round the cape which was further aggravated by running aground on her way into the port.

A last view along the seafront at the end of the day.

So some final thoughts on Stanley and The Falkland Islands in general. I found the Falklanders that I met to be open, friendly and hospitable people who had a great pride in their islands and their British heritage. This pride in their roots brings us to the thorny issue of The Falklands verses Las Malvinas and the sovereignty wrangles that have been going on for centuries. After the ’82 war a referendum was held in 2013 for the populous to register whether or not they wanted to remain a British territory. 92% of the registered voters voted of which 99.8% voted in favour. So I guess that, if the will of the population is to be respected the islands remain British territory despite any international political shenanigans that may be going on. Surely what the vast majority of the current population desires should take precedence over who may or may not have done what several hundred years ago. This said I noted that there are a large number of new residents in the Falklands who come from all over the world. Many of these may not have the strong ties to ‘the old country’ so thing might change in the future?

One thing is for sure, ’82 was all about cynical games being played by politicians which, as has often been the case in the past, led to the loss of many young lives. What was it all for and was it worth it.

Down to the Deep South, The Falklands II

27th Nov, Steeple Jason and onward.

Sailed overnight from New Island bound for Steeple Jason where we were hoping to make a landing. Good winds and reasonable sea conditions allowed us to make good time. There were no formal watches but captain asked for volunteers so I stood up for 04.00 to 06.00 hoping for another special sunrise, didn’t work out though 🙁 . Steeple Jason’s claim to fame is that it is home to the largest breeding colony of Black Browed Albatross’ in the world. Oh no, I feel more Albatross pictures coming on :-). This island is also infamous for the reason that it is a very hard island to land on. When we arrived at the anchorage the sea was still running rather high but after a quick reccy our guide decided that a landing was possible and selected a small sheltered cove (just big enough for the Zodiac to fit) with shelving rocks that we could step out onto. So, in actual fact the landing was quite smooth despite the heavy swell running we didn’t even get wet!

Heading for Steeple Jason with sun rising behind

Taking a picture of one of the islands through the murk when I was photo-bombed by a Fin Whale

Commerson’s Dolphins taking a look at us

The white specs are Albatrosses. Overall the colonies spread along the coast of Steeple Jason contains in excess of 150,000 breeding pairs of Black Browed Albatross, over 70% of the world population

Sea Lion bull with hareem guarding beach

Black Browed Albatross are generally monogamous with pairs returning to the same nest site year upon year but if one of a pair does not return for one or two seasons the surviving partner will pair up with another. Bonds between partners are reinforced by courtship rituals. They can live up to 70 years and start breeding at approximately 10 years old.

A view down the island with adjacent island behind

At anchor but with sails unfurled ready to go

Bidding the Albert Ross’s as sad farewell we headed back to the Europa and prepared to sail to our next destination, New Island. With a South Westerly wind of up to 40knots this was the first time that the Europa really got into her stride, heeled well to port and making 10 to 12 knots she handled beautifully. On this leg I also learned a lesson on preparedness, we had safety lines out on deck a I was holding onto one of these whilst chatting to one of the other voyage crew when we noticed an unusually large wave coming our way. To reduce the wave’s impact I ducked into it, a big mistake! I was wearing my full waterproof but had the hood down and the top of the jacket open consequently, the water took the route of least resistance entering at the top of my jacket and exiting at the bottom. Drowned rat does do my condition justice but, at least my legs were dry.

Another occurrence on this leg was that we overhauled a yacht that was also heading for Hope Harbour on New Island and, next morning when we met the sailor, it turned out that he was an ex Europa crew member (from 10 years ago) and he took some pictures of us that he gladly shared – below. This was a great bonus as, of course, we never got to see the ship under sail so it was good to see how fine she looked.

Down to the Deep South, The Falklands

26th Nov to 6th Dec.

Arrival at New Island in the Falklands was an emotional event for one of the voyage crew, Roger, as he had been here immediately after the Falklands War as air traffic control in the RAF, this was his first time back and, on the outlying islands he was to meet of few of the locals he remembered from those earlier days.

New Island was the first of many landings (don’t panic, we did not visit all 700 islands 🙂 ) we were to make and landings by Zodiac (rigged hulled inflatable), Penguins and Albatrosses were destined to feature heavily over the next 10 days. In the following I will share, by individual posts by Island, some of the pictures and impressions of the locations in which we found ourselves, WARNING – heavy bird content!

At the end of the series I’ll try to leave you with my overall thoughts and impressions on The Falklands, or should it be Malvinas?

New Island:- we made two landings on New Island, one at Coffin’s Harbour next to the settlement and one at Ship Harbour. Both were beach landings (there are some beautiful beaches in The Falklands) in relatively calm sea conditions. We had had a lot of build-up and safety briefings on these beach landings but in the end they were quite smooth and nowhere near as challenging as we might have been led to believe, probably due to the preparation and professionalism of the boat pilots and the two guides who always reccied the landing and then landed first to hold Zodiacs close into the landing.

Landing at Coffin’s Harbour (named after a Nantucket whaling family) adjacent to a wreck and the whaling museum. In the 17th, 18th & early 19th centuries the Falklands were a centre for harvesting of seals and penguins for their fat (blubber) and New Island also had a short lived whaling station but, as the whales were far more numerous further south this was soon closed down in favour of South Georgia. A visit to the small museum was interesting but also quite sobering when you consider the impact the industry had on the populations of seals, whales and penguins some of which have never recovered to their previous levels and, due to mans impact on the environment of the Antarctic fisheries (including krill) and global warming, are unlikely to do so. The museum was opened for us by a South African lady who, along with her ‘Cornish Man’ partner, is a custodian of the island employed by the conservation trust that owns it. I managed to have a chat with the custodian and asked how it was living in what I assumed would be a pretty desolate location in the winter with little contact with the outside world. Her amused response was that the isolation, beauty and abundance of nature were the major draw – yeh, think I could survive here too. Interestingly, they live a semi-subsistence lifestyle with a small vegetable patch (under a poly tunnel) and harvesting resource from on and around the island. Theirs’s was probably the most exposed settlement on any of the islands.

From the museum we walked across the neck to visit colonies of Black Browed Albatross, Rockhopper Penguins and King Cormorants.

The settlement – inviting? and this is summer.

Lrbbj – Little red breasted brown job – actually Long Tailed Meadow Lark

Fence post remnant of former farming activity (mainly sheep) with ample lichen indicative of the very good air quality.

Old blue eyes – these birds also have brilliant sheen to their plumage

Falkland Skua – the Hyena of the seabird colonies

Road to the settlement, gorse is an invasive alien introduced from Europe but adds a nice splash of colour.

Wreck with Europa in the background. The wreck is apparently that of a sealing vessel beached in 1969

And finally, a natural artwork. Do you see the penguin

New Island stage II, landing at the ship harbour and walking around North Bluff. Terrain here was wilder and home to two different species of penguin, Gentoo and Magellanic. As the Magellanics nest in burrows care has to be taken when navigating their colonies to avoid unplanned below ground excursions.

Landing by Zodiac, guides Jordi and Maria holding boat in position as voyage crew member Michael steps ashore.

Striated Caracara – carrion recycling facility

North Bluff scenery – small freshwater lake and sea beach beyond

Magellanic penguins at entrance to their burrow

Gentoos also like a day out on the beach but…….

and sometimes run. Skuas are hoping for crumbs

These guys remind me of Wildebeest at the Mara river, no one volunteering to go first

Some spectators – members of crew and voyage crew

Being buzzed by an Albatross – Paul, Piet and Monique

More of nature’s art work, this time sculpture – pterodactyl?

Take only pictures leave only footprints

So, first impressions gained from first island – stunning scenery, approachable unique wildlife and friendly locals. Certainly a wonderful place to visit, could I live here. Probably could have done when I was younger.