Having parted company with the Europa I was to spend a few days in and around Punta Arenas before heading north for Puerto Natales (Chile) and El Calafate and El Chalten in Agentinian Patagonia which meant I was still in town to see Europa leaving on her next adventure. Completing the passage through the Straights of Magellan, across the Drake Passage and on to Antarctica. Was I a little sad to see her go and did I wish that I could have been with her, just a bit 🙁
The time in Punta Arenas was put to good use exploring the area and catching up with Emails and this blog. Having been established in the 1840’s as a penal colony the city soon grew in importance and gave creadance to Chile’s claim for soverienty over the Straights of Magellan. It became an important location for ships passing through the straights and, as with Stanley, became the grave yard of many of the brave old ladies when the southern seas finally beat them into submission. An influx of European immigrants driven by a gold rush and sheep farming boom in the late 1800s drove its further development to become the capital city for this region and, with a population of 100,000+, it is now the most populous and coldest city in the far south of Southern America. Today Puntas Arenas is one of the major gateways for trips to Antarctica.
The city has a small city feel to it and is generally made up of one or two story buildings spralled over a large area. Many districts consist of what looks like poor quality housing and the general feeling is that there is not a great level of prosperity although there is evidence of considerable wealth amongst some sectors of the population. This disparity between the haves and have nots is one of the issues driving the high levels of civil unrest being experienced in Chile. Many business in town are boarded up with doors only open during business hours and locked down at night. Things do get a bit lively around the central square and adjacent police headquarters at night and these are quite close to the hostel where I stay. Generally the atmosphere is not particularly threatening although, on one occasion when things seemed extra boisterous, I chose a circuitous route back to avoid this area.
When walking around it is apparent that the local talent for painting inaminate objects has reached a higher level than that exhibited by the protesters with, as in Montevideo some impressive wall art.
There, again in common with Montevideo, are a number of quite impressive bronzes around the city most of which seem to be dedicated to Magellan.
Escaping from the town 7 miles East into the hills behind takes me into Reserva Nacional Magallanes which is a forest reserve with a number of hiking trails and view points (miradors). Here I completed the main circuit of the reserve and then exited from the smaller Northern gate into the valley of Rio de Las Minas which runs down into the North end of the city. The reserve is mainly forested with just a few of the high points around the miradors being open heathland. The trees around the edges of the woodland where they are unprotected are heavily sculpted by the prevailing winds taking on pronounced leans and twisted limbs. Reflecting the air quality they are dressed in flowing lichen.
Having excited the park I followed the track down through open land where there were locals herding cattle on horseback and others picnicking by the river. As the town was approached low quality but interesting housing could be seen alongside the track. I finally reached my accommodation approximately 5 hours after starting to walk, tired but invigorated – was good to get some miles in and the walk provided variety and interest throughout.
The day was rounded of by a walk on the beach to say goodbye to the Bark Europa with the next target to get to El Calafate Argentina.
