Sat 30 Nov & Sun 1 Dec, After the night anchored off Saunders we hauled anchor at approx 04.00 (I had taken the 02.00 to 04.00 anchor watch) arriving at our next destination, Pebble Island, at approx. 11.30. Guides went to check out the landing beach and confirmed it to be viable for landings after lunch although, due to largish swell running, the Zodiacs would have to approach the beach stern first and we would be disembarking over the pontoons at the stern. There was a better than average chance of getting a dousing during this manouvre.
Pebble Island is so named due to the occurance of pebbles through out the island many of which are agates. These are collected by some of the locals for producing jewlery. We didn’t find any 🙁
Our walk here was from the landing point on Tamar Beach out along the cliffs of Tamar Point and then back round to the start. We passed a number of Malleganic, Gentoo and Rockhopper penguin colonies along with those of King Comorants. The highlights from an avairian stand point was spotting a hunting Peregin Falcon and a lonely Macaroni Penguin in one of the Rcokhopper colonies.
Starfish and seaweeds on Tamar BeachThe stern first manouvering, guides in the water wearing dry suits to swing the Zodiac stern on to the beach.Coming onto the beach – we all survived without getting particularly dampEuropa and penguinsHunting PeregineKelp and Kelp GooseKelp below the cliffsMacaroni Penguin among Rockhoppers. Note the different colour and shape of eye tufts.Although Macaronis do not breed in the Falklands but further South it is not unusual to find the occassional one amongst the rockhoppers, we saw two in total. Perhaps they also get fooled by the similar punk hairstyles.
After the shore party returned Europa set sail for Volunteer point which hosts the largest colony of King Penguins in The Falklands, this would be an overnight transit. Although initially undersail due to unfavourable winds we had to revert to motoring. When under sail Europa is sympathetic to the sea conditions and, although she rolls, pitches and heals to the wind she is a comfortable craft to sail on. However, when motoring she fights more with the sea and gives those of us sailing in her a harder time of it. I’d prefer to be undersail all of the time!
Paul and Pier, members of the voyage crew helping unfurl ready to leave Pebble Island
On arrival off Volnteer point it was deemed that the sea conditions were not favourable for a beach landing (apparently this is often the case) so we sailed on too Stanley where we arrived at approximately 09.30. I cannot pretend to be overly stressed by not stopping at the penguin colony as by this point I was becoming rather ‘penguined out’.
First sight of Stanley through the porthole in the heads and, no, I was not seasick 🙂
Having remained at anchor overnight we were greeted by a glorious morning to sail (virtually no wind so actually motoring) on to our next stop at Carcass Island (nothing to do with cadavers but named after HMS Carcass). Lapping up the serene morning on deck I mentioned to a fellow voyage crew member, James, “its good to be alive”. His response, “sure beats the alternative”. James is an interesting character, a Californian who retired from the IT industry 15 years ago, he spends 8 to 9 months a year travelling. He has probably visited more countries than anyone else I’ve ever met including several (Yemen and Somali for instance) which I’d probably give a very wide berth.
Anyway back to Carcass Island. Carcass is one of the few island which has never been invaded by rats, cats or feral dogs and consequently it has a very healthy population of small land birds some of which are endemic to The Falklands. Anchored off another beautiful beach, Leopard Beach, the Zodiacs were surrounded by playful Commerson’s Dolphins on the run ashore, a cherry on the top of what had so far been a wonderful morning.
The settlementThe red and white boat was completing hydrographic surveys so we were requested to anchor further out than normal leading to a longer Zodiac trip ashore leading to ,,,,,,,Guides trying to capture dolphinsand company on the run ashoreLeopard BeachVisitors and localsView over the island from the beachA little detailUpland Goose with the kidsOne that didn’t make it. Skuas, Caracaras and Turkey Vultures make short work of anyone who falls by the waysideSpot the birdie, one of two species of wren found on the islandSmall thingsMagellanic OystercatcherMale Upland GooseLooking for the next meal, Turkey Vulture
After the walk across the island to the settlement we were invited into Carcass Island House, a guest house that welcomes all visitors to join them for tea and cakes, a veritable cakefest was presented to us, far more than we could possibly eat but we struggled manfully to do it justice. The owners of the guesthouse / island still productively farm sheep but balance it with the needs of the natural environment to very good effect. Again, the settlement is nestled in a depression in the land with a sheltering belt of trees (all introduced, there are no trees native to the islands) and the gardens were full of birdsong, idyllic.
Tea and cakes aheadThe pick-up
On returning to the ship lunch was served on deck (but barely needed after the cakefest) then we sailed (under motor again) for Saunders Island, another privately owned island which is farmed but follows strong conservation ideals. Interestingly Saunders was the home of the original settlement / capital of the island at Port Egmont and during the 18th century was variously claimed by France, Spain and Britain until Britain exerted its sovereignty over the whole island group. Two of the highland areas are connected by a low lying isthmus which is hope to a small colony of King Penguins along with a further colony of Gentoos. Warning, lots more penguins!
Filling any gaps left after the cakefestHave stick will travel, Gentoo PenguinKings heading for the beachPassing by the commoners in the Gentoo colonyfor a quiet strollNow, who’s king of the beachNow, who are these strange characters in bear skin coats?
The young Kings are completely different to the parents and are land bound for the first 11 months or so and are totally reliant on the parents for food. During this time they will obtain a greater weight than at any other time of their lives. Indeed, they are so different that early observers assumed them to be a completely different species. Additionally, they breed on a staggered two year cycle so there are frequently all stages of development to be seen within the colony.
And then you have this, when there is a Metamorphosis and the ugly bug transforms into a regal KingThis is how it all began, a bit of neckinga bit of dancingand then it all comes togetherbut the neighbours don’t seem convinced that it should all be so publicNever mind then dear, lets get out of hereAnd there’s still time for a portrait As always the Skuas keep a beady eye on things looking for their chanceGuess at sometime this whale was on the ‘all you can eat menu’ (the whale washed up on the beach some years ago and after it had been stripped clean the skeleton was moved up above the high tide line and assembled for display.Heading home againLastly, another little detail, washed up sea weed
So, in conclusion, two islands in one day, both privately owned, both still commercially farmed and both doing their bit for conservation. It was a privilege to have had access to the islands and their unique wild life but, equally, it has been a privilege to meet the custodians who’s families have for years made a living off the land and whilst not farmed it so intensively as to completely destroy these unique places. Thankyou
