kelp goose – Spans, a new life

Down to the Deep South, The Falklands V

Sat 30 Nov & Sun 1 Dec, After the night anchored off Saunders we hauled anchor at approx 04.00 (I had taken the 02.00 to 04.00 anchor watch) arriving at our next destination, Pebble Island, at approx. 11.30. Guides went to check out the landing beach and confirmed it to be viable for landings after lunch although, due to largish swell running, the Zodiacs would have to approach the beach stern first and we would be disembarking over the pontoons at the stern. There was a better than average chance of getting a dousing during this manouvre.

Pebble Island is so named due to the occurance of pebbles through out the island many of which are agates. These are collected by some of the locals for producing jewlery. We didn’t find any 🙁

Our walk here was from the landing point on Tamar Beach out along the cliffs of Tamar Point and then back round to the start. We passed a number of Malleganic, Gentoo and Rockhopper penguin colonies along with those of King Comorants. The highlights from an avairian stand point was spotting a hunting Peregin Falcon and a lonely Macaroni Penguin in one of the Rcokhopper colonies.

The stern first manouvering, guides in the water wearing dry suits to swing the Zodiac stern on to the beach.

Coming onto the beach – we all survived without getting particularly damp

Macaroni Penguin among Rockhoppers. Note the different colour and shape of eye tufts.

Although Macaronis do not breed in the Falklands but further South it is not unusual to find the occassional one amongst the rockhoppers, we saw two in total. Perhaps they also get fooled by the similar punk hairstyles.

After the shore party returned Europa set sail for Volunteer point which hosts the largest colony of King Penguins in The Falklands, this would be an overnight transit. Although initially undersail due to unfavourable winds we had to revert to motoring. When under sail Europa is sympathetic to the sea conditions and, although she rolls, pitches and heals to the wind she is a comfortable craft to sail on. However, when motoring she fights more with the sea and gives those of us sailing in her a harder time of it. I’d prefer to be undersail all of the time!

Paul and Pier, members of the voyage crew helping unfurl ready to leave Pebble Island

On arrival off Volnteer point it was deemed that the sea conditions were not favourable for a beach landing (apparently this is often the case) so we sailed on too Stanley where we arrived at approximately 09.30. I cannot pretend to be overly stressed by not stopping at the penguin colony as by this point I was becoming rather ‘penguined out’.

First sight of Stanley through the porthole in the heads and, no, I was not seasick 🙂

Down to the Deep South, The Falklands III

Dawn of a new day breaks over a new island, West Point Island. Unlike the previous islands that were owned by conservation trust West Point is still privately owned and, although much of it is managed for conservation there is still some small scale sheep farming. The owner of the island who is now 94 lives in Stanley, he was given the island as a 25 birthday present by his mother. We were welcomed ashore by the farm / island manager who lives at the settlement just above the harbour. The settlement here is tucked into a small hollow and surrounded by introduced trees that act as a wind break, really quite idyllic. As a reminder of the strong ties with the UK tucked away behin the settlement sere several decaying Land Rovers :-).

Little fluffy things welcoming us ashore

Can’t resist a good Land Rover – just need to find one 🙂

After returning to the ship we motored round to a new anchorage at Grave Cove for an easy landing on a shelving white sand beach (anywhere warmer and these beaches would have been completely degraded by holiday developments) to visit the largest Gentoo colony in the Falklands and for a cliff top walk too a small Albatross colony.

Land Rover – found a good one. Although it looks abandoned it apparently belongs to some researchers who had taken the boat out to the big smoke (Stanley 🙂 ) for some R&R.

A proud Gentoo mum. She has a reason to be proud, apparently having two viable chicks is unusual but seemed quite common in this colony – good food supply?

Although classed as a large colony it actually consists of a number of medium sized groups spread over a wide area

Rubens, one of the permanent crew ‘swimming’ with the dolphins. Due to low sea water temperatures dry suits are needed to spend anytime in the water

A walk round the headland, don’t know what these plants are but they formed large cushions loe to the ground

The walk around above the cliffs (to visit another albatross colony) was on steeply sloping ground but with good footing and certainly well within the capability of anyone who has been mountain walking before. Although some of them claimed to be seasoned travellers and trekkers some of the group complained about being exposed to this level of risk. I explained, supported by Maria one of the guides, that they were not obliged to go on and that they should just move out of the way of those of us who were happy to proceed and join with us again on the way back as we had to return by the same route. This had already been explain to them previously. Not sure if my advice was well received 🙂

Down to the Deep South, The Falklands

26th Nov to 6th Dec.

Arrival at New Island in the Falklands was an emotional event for one of the voyage crew, Roger, as he had been here immediately after the Falklands War as air traffic control in the RAF, this was his first time back and, on the outlying islands he was to meet of few of the locals he remembered from those earlier days.

New Island was the first of many landings (don’t panic, we did not visit all 700 islands 🙂 ) we were to make and landings by Zodiac (rigged hulled inflatable), Penguins and Albatrosses were destined to feature heavily over the next 10 days. In the following I will share, by individual posts by Island, some of the pictures and impressions of the locations in which we found ourselves, WARNING – heavy bird content!

At the end of the series I’ll try to leave you with my overall thoughts and impressions on The Falklands, or should it be Malvinas?

New Island:- we made two landings on New Island, one at Coffin’s Harbour next to the settlement and one at Ship Harbour. Both were beach landings (there are some beautiful beaches in The Falklands) in relatively calm sea conditions. We had had a lot of build-up and safety briefings on these beach landings but in the end they were quite smooth and nowhere near as challenging as we might have been led to believe, probably due to the preparation and professionalism of the boat pilots and the two guides who always reccied the landing and then landed first to hold Zodiacs close into the landing.

Landing at Coffin’s Harbour (named after a Nantucket whaling family) adjacent to a wreck and the whaling museum. In the 17th, 18th & early 19th centuries the Falklands were a centre for harvesting of seals and penguins for their fat (blubber) and New Island also had a short lived whaling station but, as the whales were far more numerous further south this was soon closed down in favour of South Georgia. A visit to the small museum was interesting but also quite sobering when you consider the impact the industry had on the populations of seals, whales and penguins some of which have never recovered to their previous levels and, due to mans impact on the environment of the Antarctic fisheries (including krill) and global warming, are unlikely to do so. The museum was opened for us by a South African lady who, along with her ‘Cornish Man’ partner, is a custodian of the island employed by the conservation trust that owns it. I managed to have a chat with the custodian and asked how it was living in what I assumed would be a pretty desolate location in the winter with little contact with the outside world. Her amused response was that the isolation, beauty and abundance of nature were the major draw – yeh, think I could survive here too. Interestingly, they live a semi-subsistence lifestyle with a small vegetable patch (under a poly tunnel) and harvesting resource from on and around the island. Theirs’s was probably the most exposed settlement on any of the islands.

From the museum we walked across the neck to visit colonies of Black Browed Albatross, Rockhopper Penguins and King Cormorants.

The settlement – inviting? and this is summer.

Lrbbj – Little red breasted brown job – actually Long Tailed Meadow Lark

Fence post remnant of former farming activity (mainly sheep) with ample lichen indicative of the very good air quality.

Old blue eyes – these birds also have brilliant sheen to their plumage

Falkland Skua – the Hyena of the seabird colonies

Road to the settlement, gorse is an invasive alien introduced from Europe but adds a nice splash of colour.

Wreck with Europa in the background. The wreck is apparently that of a sealing vessel beached in 1969

And finally, a natural artwork. Do you see the penguin

New Island stage II, landing at the ship harbour and walking around North Bluff. Terrain here was wilder and home to two different species of penguin, Gentoo and Magellanic. As the Magellanics nest in burrows care has to be taken when navigating their colonies to avoid unplanned below ground excursions.

Landing by Zodiac, guides Jordi and Maria holding boat in position as voyage crew member Michael steps ashore.

Striated Caracara – carrion recycling facility

North Bluff scenery – small freshwater lake and sea beach beyond

Magellanic penguins at entrance to their burrow

Gentoos also like a day out on the beach but…….

and sometimes run. Skuas are hoping for crumbs

These guys remind me of Wildebeest at the Mara river, no one volunteering to go first

Some spectators – members of crew and voyage crew

Being buzzed by an Albatross – Paul, Piet and Monique

More of nature’s art work, this time sculpture – pterodactyl?

Take only pictures leave only footprints

So, first impressions gained from first island – stunning scenery, approachable unique wildlife and friendly locals. Certainly a wonderful place to visit, could I live here. Probably could have done when I was younger.