Tecla in Antarctica, day 3 & 4

Wed. 15th Jan saw us moving on once more with the destination for the day being Trinity Island. Sailing from Deception the island was wreathed in fog so there was little to be seen and, as we progressed southward through the day, the going was slow due the large amounts of sea ice and growlers which had to be avoided. It was a long day with us only arriving at our destination at the south end of Trinity Island mid evening.

Old blue ice berg
Intergalactic battle cruiser?
The arch collapsed just as we passed
Greater Southern Petrel with fish breakfast
Watching for ice
Crew look relaxed though
Doing my bit
Chinstraps and Gentoos going with the flow
Abandon ship
to do a bit of porpoising

After having dinner onboard, we went ashore on a small island in the bay, Mikkelson Harbour, where we were anchored. This island was home to a small hut owned by the Argentinian Navy and a colony of Gentoo Penguins. This may well have been the smelliest location that I have ever been. In places the ‘nest’, a slightly raised platform of peddles, were surrounded by guano slurry. I felt that the chicks from these nests probably had a much reduced chance of surviving to go to sea. Crossing to the other side of the island there was more evidence of past whalers and a view across to shear ice cliffs of the main island, Trinity Island. In addition to the Gentoos there was one lone Adelia Penguin, the first we had seen, and a single Chinstrap.

Argentinian notification of presence
Not the ideal place to start a family but they look to be doing well
The first and what was to prove to be the only Adelia Penguin on the trip
They went either this way or that
oh, ok, it was that way
Gentoo territory, no entry
Pensive pairing
Traces of earlier activity
Trinity Island behind
Hut, soiled snow, penguins and Tecla

As we were now well into the islands and anchoring every night we had gone from sea watches to an anchor watch system where each member of the voyage crew did a one hour watch during the night, with the main purpose being to fend off any ice that came near. The permanent crew were on 6 hr watches from 6am and sailed Tecla between locations whilst we rested and, when at the destination, we went ashore to walk and observe the wildlife.

Thursday 16th started for me with a 4am anchor watch. There was a mist hanging around the islands but, through openings, the early sun was providing illumination of very levels to the snow and ice turning it to myriad shades of white. With no wind and flat seas the surface was like a mercury mirror only broken by porpoiseing penguins. The air was still and the quiet absolute except when broken by the not very melodic song of the Gentoos or the deep rumbles coming from deep inside of the ice masses indicating their growing pains.

Raising the anchor at about 05.30 we started heading yet further south into the Gerlache Channel with the ultimate destination for the day being Curverville Island. When going back on deck at around 08.00 the mountains of the Antarctic Peninsular could be seen off to Port, thus my first glimpse of the peninsular and the mainland of the continent and the many impressive bergs passing us along the way.

Berg with mainland behind
Another impressive blue ice berg. These bergs are fresh water bergs and calved from the glaciers. The darker colour is from the older the ice and results from the entrained air bubbles being compressed at the bottom of the glaciers. The ice may be many thousand years old.
Typical growler
Peninsular Antarctica
Another massive berg. The flat top indicative of a relatively young berg which has not rolled over yet.
Could it be a mystical sea monster?
The view astern
Will raising the Antarctic flag
Threading our way through the ice and into the passages

As the day progressed, we found ourselves battling into an increasingly strong South Westerly which rose to about force 6 and was severely hampering our progress. To avoid this onslaught the skipper took us into a side channel between two islands, Challenger and Bluff, to find some shelter. As this passage has not been fully surveyed the charts only have very sketchy depth data so Will and Enky went ahead in the RIB to sound the channel and guide us through. When emerging from the lee of Bluff Island it was obvious that sea conditions in the main channel were still very broken and consequently the decision was taken to go back a short way and then anchor at Murray Harbour for the night.

Finding a safe passage
Deeper into the channel to a safe anchorage for the night.