17th to 25th November
9 days to be spent sailing, initially parallel to the South American (Argentinian) coast then eastward to make landfall on the Western Falkland Islands. For these days my diary notes:
17 Nov. Pilot on board and pulling out into River Plate 07.00. Surrounded by large cruise ships. Started watches, initially motoring due to lack of wind then sails set later for combination of sailing and ‘motor sailing’ (using both sails and motor to maintain headway). Familiarisation commenced, trying to understand what all the lines were for and climbing the masts. In the way of explanation we had a total complement of 42 made up of 26 voyage crew (working passengers) and 16 professional crew, the ones who knew what they were doing 🙂
18 Nov. Continued with watchkeeping duties and nominated as watch leader. Our watch (Red Watch) had 8 members so split us up into 4 teams of 2 with rotations of half hour duration either on helm, up forward on lookout or in deckhouse on standby to assist with sail handling. One amusing interlude came when on lookout and wheelhouse remonstrated with us as we had not reported the white fishing buoys. After a quick check we reported that the buoys were now clear as they had flown off – sea birds. Started seeing various types of bird including first penguins.
19 Nov. Stood midnight to 4 watch and rewarded by a beautiful moonrise, shooting stars and Southern Cross hanging over or starboard stern rail. For some of the watch we were joined by a school of dolphins surfing the waves in a shower of bioluminescence. Later assisted with unfurling of ‘Royal’ on main mast. This yardarm is rather flimsy and I cannot claim to have felt particularly comfortable but the view compensated for the rather wobbly legs.
20 Nov. Wind shifted so close hauled but needing assistance from motor to maintain headway. Today saw red watch on the 8 to 12.
21st Nov. Today started early on the 04.00 to 08.00 watch with significant cloud cover. However the pain of our early call was compensated by a glorious sunrise many Albatross and Giant Petrel to keep us company. After breakfast we were called on to trim sail to take advantage of a changing wind. This too had its rewards as pod of Dusky Dolphin swam alongside for an extended period keeping us company. During the day the two guides gave lectures, one celestial navigation (Maria) and one by Jordi on flightless birds (penguins). These lectures are both interesting and informative.
22nd & 23rd Nov. Started on 12.00 to 04.00 watch on Friday then 08.00 to 12.00 on Saturday. The Friday morning watch was under clear skies with a myriad of stars of which the milky way and southern cross were prominent in the sky. a number of shooting stars were also observed. Throughout the two days the wind was gradually strengthening with strong winds and high seas experienced through Saturday. Ship sailing well and noticeably healed to starboard. As of 14.00 on Saturday we had approximately 300 miles of the total of 1100 miles left to run before reaching the Falklands. Many seabirds now accompanying the ship.
24th & 25th Nov. Continued strong winds and heavy seas throughout 24th only moderating during morning of 25th, overcast with some heavy rain. At times strong winds required reduction of sail to reduce our heal and the amount of water being shipped over the decks then, at other times, sail increased to maintain progress. Falkland’s spotted through the clag on Monday morning. One interesting exercise completed during these two days was ‘Bio Security’ which saw us vacuuming all of our outer layer clothes and knapsacks along with scrubbing footwear with disinfectant. This procedure has to be completed before visitors are allowed ashore to minimise the risk of introducing seeds to alien species or soil borne pathogens.
